1-Allow for decompression:
Look at this new living situation through this pup’s eyes. Everything is new and scary. Goal is to help the pup feel safe by giving him a space to decompress. This is most important, and it takes time.
How to do this: Separate contained space away from main living space, other dogs, and children. Let him rest, eat and stay there when unsupervised. Keep his world small to only a few rooms.
Avoid extended family and friends coming over
Supervise children and keep interactions brief.
2- Establish a routine:
Routines help dogs know what to expect next. It helps with stress and predictability which then helps him feel safe.
Show him where you want him to potty and give him a treat as soon as he finishes every time. This will make a clear association and speed up learning.
Mealtimes, play time and rest should happen at consistent times of the day if possible.
Treat everything positive you want to continue whether it’s him listening, sitting automatically, looking at you etc.
3-Provide enrichment:
Enrichment is a fancy word for basically let your dog be a dog! Examples are sniffing outside, using a slow feeder instead of food bowl or stuff a kong to feed him, scatter kibble in yard so he can forage. Using a licki mat or hard chews such as nylabones are great decompression activities and provides a positive association with the crate /play pen.
Add different enrichment during the day to help keep the brain active. Sniff walks have so many benefits including it being enriching and mentally stimulating and it lowers their pulse.
Learn how to read dog body language:
Does a wagging tail mean a happy dog? It depends how where the position is what the rest of his body looks like. A happy tail goes in a circular motion with a high carriage. A stiff tail that’s slowly wagging could mean uncertainty, tension or fear.
When a dog yawns, is he tired? It depends. Most of the time means he’s trying to calm himself down.
It would be very informative and helpful if you could start reading the body postures so you can understand the pup’s emotions and how to help him.
Give it time:
Dogs determine when they feel safe. Lower expectations. Get to know the dog and what he likes, makes him excited and also what makes him scared.
How to introduce family dog to foster:
Best done in outside neutral space walking parallel.
Read body language and don’t go closer until it’s neutral. Slowly close the gap, reading body language every time there’s less distance.
The goal is to be walking next to each other, without stopping yet. Then stop and let them sniff each other using the 3 second rule. Keep walking. Then walk both dogs on leash to back yard and continue walking them around going opposite in a circle. Watch body language to make sure it’s neutral.
Once you feel both pups are comfortable, drop the leashes but don’t take them off their collars yet. Keep interaction short and sweet and separate.
Resource guarding:
What is it? Anything a dog thinks is valuable so he becomes possessive over it. Food is most common, especially with rescues who have been deprived or had to work for it. It could also be attention from foster, toys, a favorite bed or furniture.
Best to feed multiple dogs separately and supervised. Pick up bowl afterwards and don’t leave toys around. It’s a behavior that’s really hard to change.
What do you do if your foster starts to growl or try to protect a toy/bowl?
DON’T punish because he may try harder next time to keep it.
Teach him to swap/trade: This should be practiced in the beginning with a lower valuable item. The idea is to “trade up” so he not only gets to keep the item, but he also gets rewarded for dropping it first.